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Every painted surface is different – latex, oil, flat, glossy, etc. Hi Ann – Yes, you can apply the Polyshades over stain. I would wait until the stain is dry and run sandpaper over the surface and then clean and let it dry. When using PolyShades be sure to stir the can very well. If you shake, you will get bubbles and you don’t want them showing up in your finish.
The more coats the darker the stain will look. She obviously used at least 3 coats and be sure to run a fine grit sand paper between each coat for a smooth finish. Hi Janell – If the vanity cabinet is wood, then yes.
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Are you going to stain/paint them black? Using the stain would give the railing and spindles a deeper black look. I am not sure if that makes sense, but it will work. If you can buy a small can of the stain, try it on one spindle.
You will have to wait for the stain to fully cure for at least 3 weeks to get the can’t scratch off durability – so be gentle with the finish. If you don’t want to clean up a brush, you can buy a high quality foam brush. It is a little more expensive, but you will get a nice even finish with it.
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If you live in a dry climate – less time. Just remember before staining to rough up the surface on all the pieces with sandpaper before applying the stain. If you are still uncertain, test a small area and see how long it takes to dry. You will be happy with the thinness of the stain once applied.
It may take a few coats and light sanding in between each to get the finish dark and smooth. Diane, I was so pleased when I read your instructions for using Minwax Polyshades in black. I was planning to paint an unfinished pine chest but liked the sound of using the stain instead. I first used the Minwax prep for soft wood and then applied three coats of the Polyshade.
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I did this a few years ago and the formula may be different than what I used. I also know that when you stain, you need to apply with steady fluid strokes. Since your doors are large flat expanses, you may see streaks if the application is not smooth and fluid.
Make sure the surface is smooth and not tacky anywhere. If it is not tacky from the earlier stain, then you are good to go to apply the PolyShades. Polyshades is a very different than just plain stain. You want to make sure you apply it evenly so when the finish is dry, the shine of the poly looks smooth and even in the light. I will note that since I posted the post you read, Minwax has changed the stain formula.
This ensures that the stain or paint has some “tooth” to attach to. If a surface is too slick, shiny or dirty, the paint will not stick over the long run and will not be a durable surface. A quick 5 minute going over the surface with 100 grit sandpaper and cleaning is worth the time spent for a long lasting finish. This way you can see if you are covering the surface completely and catch any drips before they dry. Black stain can be applied right over any existing finish.
Many factors could have contributed to the streakiness. Wood quality, a veneer with an uneven grain, to the the air temperature when applied. Without seeing the piece, this is my first thought. The other thing that might have occurred is there may have been unevenness on the surface before you stained. To try to fix it, I would go over the entire stained surface with very fine sandpaper.
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